Now a key staple of everyone’s wardrobe, the Little Black Dress (LBD) was first introduced in 1926 by Gabrielle Chanel. In a world where black signified mourning and the servant class, her ‘la petite robe noire’ caused a stir. Black, short, simple in shape and more masculine than traditional dresses of the time, the iconic LBD was subversive from its birth.
The exhibition follows the history of the Little Black Dress from 1926 to the present day, tracing not only changes in the world of fashion but highlighting how these were representative of larger changes in society. The exhibition explores not only the varied history of the garment itself, but how social change can be viewed through the lens of a ‘simple’ item of clothing.
Whilst LBD traditionally stands for Little Black Dress, the exhibition comprises of many longer dresses and even suits such as Yves Saint Laurent’s ‘Le Smoking’ tuxedo ensemble. The pieces on show subvert expectation, blurring the lines between masculinity and femininity, and crossing the boundaries of the socially acceptable.
Initially, the LBD was inspired my mourners and servants, but designers also drew inspiration from churchmen and women. This was subverted when the traditional LBD took a more provocative turn. Designers played with the idea of ‘taboo’ and explored sexual subcultures, flaunting sexuality as empowerment. The dresses on show include underwear as outerwear, bondage elements and pieces from Gianni Versace’s provocative Miss S&M collection, which was staged during the height of the AIDS epidemic.
Zandra Rhodes’ 1977 ‘Punk Wedding Dress’ as part of her Conceptual Chic collection was equally revolutionary, with the collection being the first high fashion collection to include the punk aesthetic.
The Little Black Dress was often subversive not only through the garment itself, but because of its wearer. Undoubtedly a key part of popular culture, it has been immortalized both through iconic characters in film and TV, and figures in the public eye. On show were the Alexander McQueen gown donned by Killing Eve’s Villanelle as well as the iconic black Giorgio Armani dress worn by the Duchess of Sussex for her interview with Oprah Winfrey in March 2021. The Duchess’ choice to wear black flouted strict rules as to when royal women can wear black, yet again highlighting that a dress is never just a dress. Increasingly, the bodies of celebrities and royals alike have acted as exhibition spaces for art.
In Villanelle’s case, her dress sums up her persona — and in the same way a costume for a TV character reflects their nature, the LBD allows people in their everyday lives to shroud themselves in black canvas onto which they can project their identity.
The exhibition is a stunning reflection of the importance of an item of clothing that has become a true staple of everyone’s wardrobes. For anyone interested in fashion and history, it is truly a must-see.
Image courtesy of Teodora Tolma.