If you look past the suit-wearing, lunchtime bustle of Edinburgh’s ever-gentrified Haymarket, you might just see a new generation of food start-ups on the horizon.Amidst the post-covid market gap, The Palmerston is leading the pack.
The lovechild of two food fanatics, this newbie hit the ground running in 2021, with notoriously persnickety Jay Rayner praising its “drop-dead gorgeousness” in line with the hoard of New Town residents that adopted it as a new local.
But don’t be fooled by the preamble; with a deceivingly smart interior and reputation, The Palmerston caught my attention for the value. At £21 for two-courses, this gastro-pub’s lunch menu is arguably one of the most competitive around, a bracket above Chez Jules of course, but nonetheless justifiable for a student loan splurge.
Upon entry, prepare to be greeted by an impressive spread of pastries, formerly baked each morning by Lannan Bakery’s founder, Darcie Maher, who garnered her legion of fans whilst heading up the pastry section at The Palmerston itself. Business lunches and family feasts sit side by side against this pub-meets-bistro backdrop, where a generously stocked bar sets the tone for the whole experience, and extensive wine list shows this establishments range.
Put simply, the team could charm you from breakfast through to nightcap.
The food is brilliantly moreish, with the set menu eliminating any guess work and À La Carte offering a spread of re-imagined comforts, all with a Scottish twist, of course (think Shetland lamb ragù, or pie with a venison flare).
After consuming the noteworthy bread and her accompanying mountain of butter, I went for the grilled squid with Padron peppers and aioli, a zingy-light starter with enough greens to see me through the week. I then moved onto my pan-fried cod with white beans, spinach and olive dressing; a hearty plate of colour that was as tasty as it was nourishing.
Admittedly, it’s hard for me to be impressed by a dessert, but this blueberry frangipane tart with lemon curd and clotted cream shot right to the top of my Edinburgh sweets list. Buttery pastry with not a soggy bottom in-sight? Almost too good to be true. But with a blueberry-lemon filling so light and moist, this slice was worth the food coma.
Without wishing to make this a Palmerston-addressed love-letter, I’d be lying if I said The Palmerston didn’t stand its ground in a city saturated with top restaurants. No, it’s not cheaper than a Nando’s, but in terms of atmosphere, quality, and value for money, I think your Sunday Splurge would be well justified.
Image via Charlotte Martin