“This would be better served on a conveyor belt!” Said no one, ever. It’s about time we addressed the sorry state of Edinburgh’s Japanese offering. Traipsing the meal deal aisles for rolled rice that would struggle at airport security, dying horseradish green and calling it a “bargain”…I hear your cries. It’s with a yelp of enthusiasm that I direct you towards the unsuspecting Tollcross, an ominous reminder of sports-night past where if you dig deep enough, you just might find sushi salvation.
Handling the overspill of Grindlay Street’s Kanpai, Yamato brings a touch of chic to Edinburgh’s Westside. With dimly lit booths and enough wooden furnishings to fill a forest, this find’s a far-cry from the conveyer belt boasting chains we know and (once) loved. In fact, dare I say… Yamato’s got a heavy dose of suave. Focus redirects to the friendly welcome, with an attentive team keeping noshers supplied with a balance of jasmine tea and shochu. Only one table is free this Wednesday, so we get comfy.
The menu appeases palettes with both well-loved classics and newbies, not forgetting the specials menu where Brussel sprouts and eel challenge those wanting to walk on the wild side. After a day on 3rd floor, we were looking to play it safe, easing in with some familiar miso soup before a mountain of fried crustaceans made its way over. By now loyal readers know my fondness for a fried good and I’d say with confidence that this beauty takes top spot – if I thought anyone was counting. Deliciously light batter with a hefty bite of prawn, these tempuras were offset by their tsuyu sauce – a sharp accompaniment worthy only of the very crispiest. Takoyaki were up next, balls of seafood goodness with enchanting bonito flakes atop, paying homage to the “grilled octopi” from which these nuggets take their name. After trying various renditions, the lack of stodge made these truly stand out from the crowd.
Then reached the deal-breaking sushi round. With an eye-catching panko maki on the menu, we hedged our bets to see what the hype was about. Ponzu sauce and abundant herby garnish was the answer, protecting a salmon roll x golden batter fever dream. Undoubtedly a native’s nightmare, Scotland’s here to prove if you can do it with a mars bar, nothing’s off limits. Things wrapped up with a soft-shell crab roll, the crowning jewel of all sushi endeavours: deliciously decadent yet simultaneously fresh, these rolls were devoured in one (almost) fell swoop, with special mention going to the fish roe which added little but swag points.
With a price to pay for this city’s options, Japanese is often reserved for the most special occasions in the land of Scot. Thankfully, at around £25 a head, you’d be forgiven for renouncing Nobu to the leagues of Kardashian past, with Yamato proving value and quality don’t have to be mutually exclusive. Hold your high-street gimmicks, I’d take this over a Tokyo Drift.
Images provided by Charlotte Martin.