Fight your way past Waverley until you hit bagpipe-galore, you know you’re in Old Town. Famed for the Fringe frenzy of summers past, and the only place in town for an acceptably priced pint, the restaurant scene has taken a while to cotton on. Fortunately, thanks to Sarah Baldry and Alan Keery, flashy franchises be-gone, the “neighbourhood restaurant” is making a comeback, with the Wedgewood alumnae proving good food can have all the love, none of the gimmick. Meaning “nature” in Scottish-Gaelic, Nàdair prides itself on a five-course menu that is switched up daily, and as this spanking-new opening marks the first venture from this business pairing, they’ve traded the Royal Mile for Roseneath Street, without compromising any commitment to the land of the brave.
Upon a grisly Sunday, it takes a lot to be tempted out of pyjamas, so arriving to the sight of only 3 occupied tables, I’d be lying if I said I didn’t let out an internal grumble. Come on Edinburgh, what happened to a social life! It was too late to turn back, and an almost painfully merry welcome made it feel as if a) we’d be flaking on family dinner if we ditched now or b) someone had just finished a hospitality crash course. A* for effort. A £30 three course menu was this jaunt’s sex appeal, with an affordable weekend offering designed to let local shine: Scottish produce and freshly foraged goods dominating the menu. Steaming rye was promptly served with a smoky butter and mushroom pate situation, providing a welcome layer of carb to line the stomachs. A blink of an eye and it was time for starters, with us both opting for the “roe deer tartare” with “elderberry, shallot and buckwheat”… and half of Costco’s stock of fried onions. Fish past the alliums and we found something decently tasty, juicy cubes of venison in an incognito sauce. Life changing? No. Novel? I’ll concede.
Just as my stomach was limbering up, bracing for its weekly chicken intake that would make most gym lads cower in fear, I began to wonder if I’m bordering on greedy. My meagre main was served, and my levels of indignation confirmed I evidently am. Aside from the Brandy Melville portions though, the “chicken, salsify, chanterelle, jus” combination proved positively moreish, with the mushroom whatsit giving a heavy dose of autumnal goodness and a glossy jus plumping up all components.
With the waiter so attentive I feared he’d pull up a chair, I think all parties were relieved when dessert time came around. Under Sarah Baldry’s watchful eye, Nàdair deservedly prides itself on its pastry section, and I happily profess this as course of the day. “Isle of mull cheddar beignets with truffle honey” unashamedly stole the show as salty batter was set off by a sickly sweetness, this was one course so decadent I even shut up about portion size. My trusty companion’s sticky toff was no less magnificent, with the rich date sauce reasserting its authority on this UK classic.
If we excuse this Old Town newbie for not yet finding its feet amongst the locals, Nàdair’s weekend menu really is a charming option to escape the tourist throng. Granted, its minimalist décor was reflected in its portion sizes, but if we’re going for quality not quantity, I’ll admit you’ll be hard pressed to find venison and truffle honey for much cheaper. A welcoming eatery with a dynamic menu…Marchmont locals, let’s show some love for this one.
Images provided by Charlotte Martin.