Whenever I tell people I like travelling around Eastern Europe, many often react with mild bemusement and, often, confusion at why anyone would ever want to venture beyond the iron curtain. Mentions of Serbia, Montenegro and Moldova often conjure up images of brutalist hellscapes, and, in the words of one of my tutors describing Serbia, ‘what, the ethnic cleansing place?’
However, there is much to recommend these slightly obscure travel destinations beyond the brooding facades of towering communist blocks, particularly as a broke student with a penchant for alcoholism. Below, I have given the Eastern European countries a score based on my personal experiences there and a little bit about them. There are definitely other places in Eastern Europe worth visiting, but Poland and Hungary etc. already have enough hype around them for me to bother including in this list.
Croatia: 4/10
I can’t lie, Croatia is so painfully average. What remains of one of the most beautiful cities in Europe (Dubrovnik) is merely a facade — there is no culture here but overpriced restaurants and lads holidays galore. The first night I spent here, my dad got flashed by seven Australian men. Granted, I’ve heard Zagreb and Split have something to offer, with Zagreb having the most museums per capita of anywhere in the world, but definitely steer clear of these overpriced Southern towns. As a broke student, you would even struggle to get a pint under a fiver. The one thing I can attest to is it is breathtakingly beautiful, but besides that, there is little to recommend.
Montenegro: 6/10
I was very surprised when I first stepped foot in Montenegro. Despite the atrocious condition of the roads, Montenegro is absolutely beautiful with rolling mountains, beautiful vistas, and a coastline to die for. Tourism has slowly started to wrench the heart out and prices are constantly inflating with the unfortunate arrival of cruise ships, however, the charm of Kotor’s old town, as well as many like it that are scattered along its coastline still remain intact. This certainly feels more Balkan than Croatia. The best bits of Montenegro lie slightly outside the touristy facade it puts up. Hike a couple of kilometers outside Kotor and you are rewarded with probably the best view from a cheese shop I have ever seen. Montenegro also has some great churches, carved into the mountains with stunning golden frescos of medieval orthodox saints. However, you do need a car if you want to make the most of the coastline and to get to all the cool churches. There is still charm here but it is disappearing quickly with the onslaught of obnoxious American tourists.
Romania: 7/10
Romania is a bit of a mixed bag, but there is so much to offer here if you know what you’re looking for. Bucharest is absolutely bizarre, although there is some classically European architecture and some nice churches kicking about, the old town is rammed with shirtless English men, fucked out of their mind at 2pm and screaming their hearts out. For lovers of Brutalism, Bucharest certainly doesn’t disappoint. Ceaucescau, one of the most brutal communist dictators of the Eastern bloc, thought it would be a great idea to bulldoze half the old town to build the biggest Parliament building in the world and an obnoxiously large boulevard, now adorned with adverts from almost any multinational conglomerate you can name (bit ironic that). In terms of urban planning this is certainly not a slay.
However, outside Bucharest, there is so much Romania can offer for a lot cheaper than one might initially think in the capital. The countryside, particularly Transylvania, is littered with gorgeous castles (think Dracula) and lovely wooden churches while smaller cities like Cluj-Napoca and Brasov are absolutely stunning and a world away from the chaotic hellscape of Bucharest. If you are going here, do not spend much time in Bucharest, the rest of the country is so much better.
Bulgaria: 8/10
Sofia is full of cute cafes and bars down small side streets and nestled into small parks, while architecturally it is one of the most diverse cities in Europe. Its streets are adorned with Ottoman, Neoclassical, Secessionist and 1950s Socialist Classicism buildings, while there are smatterings of Roman ruins everywhere, in the metro stations and alongside the main square. It is incredibly well designed and all the architectural styles largely complement each other, unlike Bucharest’s choking brutalism which completely dominates. Sofia also has many museums on offer and interesting landmarks to check out, the only downside was that it was much more expensive than I thought. While accommodation is cheap and drinks are relatively so, eating out and getting a coffee is pretty expensive.
Moldova: 7/10
Now this is a controversial one. Moldova is definitely not everyone’s cup of tea, but it is essentially the peak of Eastern European side-questing. Chisinau is a sleepy small capital with really cute side streets. What gives it its distinct style is Russian imperial architecture, sleepy single-story houses, some of the best neoclassic Stalinist architecture I have seen alongside dominating brutalist landmarks, while babuskhas travel in from the surrounding countryside to sell their wares – whether they be cabbages or showerheads – in the bustling market-places and on street corners. The parks that adorn the main street have cute bars and coffee shops nestled in them. There is not much to do here but it is an interesting, well-designed city with some surprisingly pretty areas, but much more orientated for the average brutalist fan. It is also home to the Chisinau Youth Festival every summer where the whole main street essentially becomes a huge mosh pit and everyone dances their heart out, completely for free.
Outside Chisinau, things are a little bit more off the rails. Apart from Ukraine, Moldova is the only place in Europe with a de facto secessionist state inside it, Transnistria. Transnistria, without fetishising it too much, is a Soviet themepark, Lenin statues and the hammer sickle adorn the crumbling streets. Although we might view Moldova as a quaint and maybe slightly bizarre outpost of Soviet influence, it’s important that we don’t forget the inequality and poverty of the country. Most Moldovans make roughly a fifth of the average Brit, and the old Babushkas don’t wake up everyday to vend on street corners for the fun of it, the state pension is nowhere near enough to live off. Moldova is certainly not a tourist hotspot, nor is it for the faint-hearted but if you can look past its rugged exterior and intimidating brutalist behemoths, it’s a charming place where students can marvel at buying a beer for less than a pound and explore some very interesting social and cultural landscapes, untouched by tourists. Also, top tip: avoid the hostels, they are sooo incredibly cheap but there are actual Nazis staying there with swastika tattoos. Splash out on the £20 hotel room, it really is worth it.
Bratislava: 8/10
Bratislava is a lovely hidden gem of Central/Eastern Europe. It’s a city that is well suited for brutalism lovers, but if that’s not a bit of you, the old town remains almost entirely untouched by the specter of communism. It feels like a classic central European city, think Prague without it being choked by tourists and with cheaper prices (albeit a wee bit smaller).
However, for those who do enjoy brutalism this is an absolute treat. Not only is there a huge upside pyramid, the former HQ of the Slovak radio, but Bratislava is also home to an absolute marvel of communist engineering: the UFO Bridge, the world’s longest single sided suspension bridge at the time of its completion (yippee), and the restaurant at the top has absolutely stunning views of the Danube. The food here is also surprisingly good. In an act of international solidarity under the Czechoslovak communist party, thousands of Vietnamese trained in Slovakia and so you can get good, authentic, and, most importantly, cheap Pho in the heart of Central Europe. For those who get a bit homesick, buckfast is available in all Slovak cornerstones, reflecting the melting pot of cultures present in Bratislava.
Serbia: 8/10
Belgrade is basically Bucharest with exceptional urban planning, fewer collapsed buildings (minus the department of defence) and less sleazy dickheads on the streets. Serbia is not the most popular, but if you can get over the distinctly pro-Russian and anti-NATO graffiti, Belgrade is a brilliant city up there with my favourites in Europe. Each area of the capital has such a distinct feel to it, Kneza Mihalia feels like your average European promenade with Ottoman, brutalist and neoclassical styles jumbled together, packed with bars and restaurants spilling out onto the street and opening up to an old, largely intact fortress, repurposed as a park, outdoor military museum, tennis court and basically whatever else you can name. The Bohemian Quarter is a gorgeous cobbled street, lined with tavernas, boasting dozens of accordion players each evening. Lit by gas-street lamps, it almost feels as if you are walking along inside the cobbled streets of Paris. A short bus ride to New Belgrade, you discover the iconic brutalism of Centar tower and the People’s Palace, whilst a bit further West, one stumbles across Zemun, a beautiful cobbled district that feels just like an old Ottoman town with a stunning panoramic view of Belgrade. What’s more is that the night life is brilliant, with hidden nightclubs that look like someone’s flat blaring Serbian turbofunk long into the wee hours. The beer is cheap, the buses are free, and you can see Tito’s resting place. What more could you possibly want?
Image provided by Ross Doran