What do the Avengers and Edinburgh have in common, apart from the burden of toxic masculinity and a penchant for the supernatural (Loch Ness monster not included)? You guessed it…not much. Yet hiding below the bourgeoise bustle of Dundas Street, simply follow the Hollywood stardust to reach the latest endeavour from the Avengers and Captain America director, where an investment’s been made that Tony Stark would be proud of. The man in question is Joe Russo – the director behind Everything Everywhere All at Once – if you needed any further evidence this man thinks outside the box. Meanwhile, his partner of choice was The Table’s Sean Clarke – the brains behind the 10-cover restaurant, where small talk with strangers is forced on you for a mere £110. But what do I know, as, declaring this Scot’s cheffing as “the best meal you’ll ever have”, the multiverse reached our holy streets this April, proving dreams really can come true.
All jokes aside, Under the Table represents Dundas Street’s foray into more accessible dining, boosting a lower price point and 50-cover capacity, to complement its 10-seats-one-table experience (à-la-Wagamama’s) found upstairs. Preferring to people watch from afar than from the perspective of someone else’s side plate, the laid-back warmth of said restaurant’s décor and front of house was felt immediately, with a clandestine charm to the basement location. You can tell I don’t get out much. Over the discernible hum of Lauryn Hill on the speakers, a warm greeting and table were supplied, with the menu of the day gloating the local prowess that made its upstairs so coveted. So, it was with a large glass of red and complimentary cheese puff in hand that I scoured the menu, making a tick list of brownie points in my head as the words “steak” and “treacle tart” met my eyes, without wishing to sound too much like a burlish pub landlord…
The onion tart with goat’s cheese won the starters debate, with a fromage de tête for good measure. Caramelised coils made their bed on flaky pastry, afloat a frothy bath of creaminess which elevated the whole ordeal. The terrine held its own too, with tangy accoutrements of cornichon and mustard standing up to the gelatinous slice. By main course we were craving comfort, calling for none other than a steak frites and Jerusalem artichoke risotto, you know, just to really test the foundations of this French/Italian inspired spot. With risotto well-fragranced and chips reaching golden-arch level crispiness, our test was passed with flying colours; the only criticisms coming from the rice being a touch too al dente and steak an ounce more medium than medium-rare. My sweet treat came in tarte tatin form – a jewel studded pastry with vanilla ice cream and shortbread crumb – which succeeded in sending my cholesterol to the heavens, as well as my happiness levels, although admittedly they’re less easy to quantify.
I wanted to hate it. A Hollywood wizard waving a Thor-hammer wand? It’s a cliché Netflix Original creators leap at. Admittedly though, Under the Table did exactly what it set out to, with modern European inspired food, chipper staff and a candlelit mellowness that would make even the Hulk zen out. In truth, it’s the antithesis of Avengers, but I’ve got to give it to him, Captain America’s got range.
Images provided by Charlotte Martin.