As the friend of some of Edinburgh’s greatest part-time fine-dining servers, I’ve got my ear to the ground about cool new restaurants, whether I like it or not. But this has its upsides, like last week when they decided we should try to be the first table at Moss, the new Stockbridge farm to table restaurant from Noma alum, Chef Henry Dobson.
We arrived a minute early for our noon lunch reservation and to our horror, had already been beaten to their first official seating. This didn’t get us down for long – the server (who was deftly covering every table in the small but airy dining room) was excited to welcome us, presenting us with the drinks menu (all sourced in the British Isles) and explaining that the food menus were still printing, but would be out in a moment.
With full afternoons ahead, we skipped the wines and went for the spritz, made with ingredients all sourced from Dobson family’s nearby farm. This farm, we learned, was the source not only of much of the menu’s ingredients, but also the materials of the homemade paint on the walls and much of the furniture. Even the tables were farm-to-table!
Luckily for their woodworker, the Table Smoked Duck starter is currently smoked using the excess shavings from the construction; embodying the restaurants sensible no-waste practices. The vegetarian starter was especially inventive, with thin slices of beetroot served over a peated whiskey labneh and crystal bread, and topped with a shaved whey fudge. This was the most out of the box dish we tried, and would likely be the most polarizing with its peaty, earthy profile – but we loved it!
While there was no suitable main for our coeliac/pescatarian friend, the staff were incredibly accommodating and served her a double portion of the fish starter, a cured halibut turned bright blue by spirulina. Our meat eater got the Roe Deer, served in a Chinese money sauce with Pommes Anna so crispy-looking, I almost risked my vegetarianism for a bite. While they both thoroughly enjoyed; I think I won; the vegetarian main, a winter leaf gnudi with fried artichoke served in a savoury sweet broth, was truly stunning. Often, the vegetarian option at similar restaurants feels like an afterthought, but the fluffy plump dumplings made for a comforting, filling dish that anyone would enjoy.
We finished off with a delicious cake and the homemade Koji Chai, served in a truly awesome mug. All the stoneware is made by Dobson’s wife, Leith based ceramicist Akiko Matsuda, and given all the plates and cups were gorgeous, I’m keeping an eye on her instagram to see if she lists any of those mugs for sale.
Ultimately, it’s barely worth describing the dishes- their commitment to using only Scottish ingredients means the menu will be constantly changing. But this self-imposed restriction means that the dishes are inventive without feeling overwrought; the creativity of their cooking is a result of their commitment to sustainability. The ambiance of the space and quality of the food is outstanding, while the admirably reasonable price tag (around 50 per person, all in) makes this the perfect restaurant for any occasion. As of writing, they’ve still got space for a Valentine’s Day lunch!
Image by Louisa McDaniel