That time of year is upon us again: the leaves are beginning to glow an orange-red hue, the wind howls with greater bravado and the layering of clothes attempts to shield us from the cold. It is now the season of the Pumpkin Spice Latte (PSL). Never having tried the infamous PSL, it still provides a sense of nostalgia combined with change, the changing of the season and the closing of another year. Yet, it appears that the humble PSL has a much deeper and somewhat darker meaning than we care to realise.
Scouring Spotify for a new podcast, hoping to spark some inspiration and awaken the brain cells, my attention was immediately captivated by Blindboy and his episode: The Colonial History of Pumpkin Spice Lattes. A brief pause for reflection and I was hooked: how had I never made this connection before? Being a student of history and politics, with a keen interest in colonialism and empire, I could see how the puzzle pieces fit together. Pumpkins, spice and coffee: all ingredients born from colonialism and which we readily take for granted. Hoping to provide some enlightenment and spread the word, this article discusses Blindboy’s podcast to reveal how such a revered and much-loved beverage possesses such a complex past.
The origins of the pumpkin:
As Blindboy illuminates, the Pumpkin itself has a rich history. For the PSL, its heritage is significantly linked with North America where some of the first English settlers came into contact with Native Americans. Mainly concentrated within what would become the New England colonies such as Massachusetts Bay or Plymouth, it was the Native Americans that provided essential knowledge and vital materials like the pumpkin. Believed to have originated in Central America as early as 3500 B.C., pumpkins were part of the Native American’s three sisters harvest: an ingenious system which tied together the cultivation of pumpkins, corn and beans. Whilst more could be said about this agricultural system, for the maintenance of both brevity and interest I will focus my attention on the world-renowned squash.
For the English settlers the introduction of the pumpkin proved essential. With crops from home unable to grow in the new climate, many had suffered both malnutrition and starvation. It was thanks to the Native Americans that these colonies were able to endure and subsequently expand. It came at a price however, for these Native groups witnessed significant mortality from diseases introduced via Europe, including England, a factor later compounded by violent warfare.
The origins of pumpkin and spice:
Not only were they introduced to the pumpkin by the Native Americans but instructed how to prepare, cook and eat it. Consequently, the English colonies welcomed this culinary delight into their everyday diet. Nevertheless, they would later divert from the Native American preparation and begin to enjoy pumpkin in an entirely novel way. Bringing with them other foodstuffs, English settlers began to remove the top from pumpkins, scooping out the seeds and filling them with a mixture consisting of milk, spices and honey. Central spices to this mixture were that of nutmeg, ginger and cinnamon: all similarly products of colonialism but more specifically the colonisation of Asia (the origin of nutmeg can be traced to the Banda Islands of Indonesia). Once ready, the concoction containing pumpkin would be placed on an open fire and left to bubble and infuse.
Today’s Pumpkin Spice Latte:
Whilst the modern Starbucks latte is clearly distinct from the drink consumed during the 17th century, the addition of coffee being the main factor, it is important that we remember how this popular consumer item came to be. Not mere pop-historical fantasy, current society rests on intricate, and often precarious (historical) foundations. So, the next time you order yourself a PSL don’t forget to acknowledge the significance of its heritage and the importance of understanding how our contemporary world came to be.