Stumble past the city staples of Chez Jules and Gari’s and you might just miss it, but nestled next to Hanover Street’s infamous Tap sits Tipo, Stuart Ralston and Jade Johnston’s latest foray after the success of firm-favourites Noto and Aizle. In mere months, this millennial dream has garnered a loyal following and bib-gourmand stamp of approval from the Michelin Guide. Safe to say, Tipo’s filling the fresh-pasta shaped hole in New Town’s restaurant scene.
A refreshing glass of soave washed down our warm focaccia and garlic confit, with a springiness that put local sandwich-shops to shame, before trying the bestselling zeppole, fried ringlets of batter adorned with smoky paprika and lashings of parm. Prematurely carbed-out, this was only the beginning, as we were presented with one of the founder’s favourites, lamb fritte with anchovy accompaniments. An alternative yet addictive combination that would have some Nonnas turning in their grave, the salty fish managed to cut through the dense lamb. The only criticism of the fried goodness was that it was a little bland on its own for our picky standards. We exhaled a sigh of relief as we arrived at our final starter, a tuna, chilli, caper, and orange combination that cut through the beige, providing a welcome citrus-themed interlude amidst the more typical flavours of Italy.
By now I imagine the panic has set in. Has the small-plate scene gone so far that an Italian menu is void of all pasta? I hear your concern. As a matter of fact, named after the Italian “00” Tipo pasta flour, pasta may just be this establishments raison d’être. With an offering standing six options strong, all palettes are catered for by Tipo’s glutinous selection, with the cacio e pepe being most raved-about. Indeed, never one to follow the crowd (read: irony) we opted for the pumpkin gnudi and pork strozzapreti. Don’t be confused by the name, translating to the slightly ominous “priest strangler” due to the historical backlash of a papal ban on eggs, it’s only natural it affected pasta production and happiness levels alike. Whilst pretty in presentation, the gnudi lacked both flavour and texture, leaving us a tad disappointed, yet the fennel strozzapreti righted any wrongs from the bowl before, with a glossy, punchy sauce and garnish to boot.
So, Tipo, a minimalist love-affair with so much millennial pink, you’d be forgiven for forgetting you’re in the land of Trainspotting. While a charming hiding place from the Princes Street bustle, the food didn’t rock my world, but for a lunch for under £30 and some mid-shopping rest, va bene.
Images provided by Charlotte Martin.