Step foot in George Square and it won’t take long to find a gap year lamenter. You know, the kind that found themselves in Central America and miss everything but the backpack? Good news for the anguished, for Mexico’s only a margarita away, as The Bon Vivant Group alumnus Stuart McCluskey is back with Paz Taqueria, armed with Tajin in one hand and tequila in the other.
Aficionados are not mistaken; this Thistle Street hideaway did used to be home to the El Cartel chain, an Edinburgh classic loved for its spirituous slushy machines and gaudy skull decorations, (or in spite of them.) Alas, the restaurant scene has seen them and raised them, with a more experimental inception coming along to replace the ghosts of guacamole past.
Duck-egg blue walls perk up this compact yet cosy interior, lit up by candles and Latin-American pop art that sets the scene nicely for an evening escape. Impressively busy for a weeknight newbie, book in advance to avoid disappointment as date-nights and friendship reunions pack side by side – if a drizzly Wednesday was anything to go by. I kicked things off with the Especial margarita, a heady blend of blueberry, lime, and cinnamon, cut through with a liberal dose of Mezcal, whilst my trusty companions divvied up the coctéles menu, La Palomita proving the fan favourite.
Onto the main event, the antojitos offered seven original takes of some El Pais classics, with Calamares y Salsa, Ceviche of the day, and Quesadilla Verde winning our hearts and stomachs. The calamares offered the lightest batter, flaking at the plate in all its sizzling freshness, while Green Aioli and Salsa Macha cheese accompanied, just to keep things saucy. Ceviche of the day woke us up with a serious zest hit, not to mention tortilla chips so moreish I should have taken a zip-lock.
Only one dish let me down, the Quesadilla Verde which, in all its chlorophyllin glory, struggled to make an impression amidst its corpulent counterparts. But hey, God loves a trier, and this menu did cater to those more plant-inclined, (though the dairy-averse might be left wanting more…).
As if we weren’t giddy enough, Paz’s taco offering came steaming past the tables, with an assortment of chicken, pork and a steak-chorizo hybrid just to keep our tastebuds guessing. The chicken made for some very happy campers across the table, whilst on my side, the beef and chorizo won by a mile; melt-in-the-mouth tender giblets smothered in signature aioli and topped with potato wisps. Call me pedantic, but my only criticism was the thickness of the corn tortillas, which I felt to be a tad stodgy in places. But I’m grasping at straws here, they didn’t stop me inhaling the lot.
At under £30 a head for a full tum and cocktail, Paz Taqueria is proving itself a real stand-out against Thistle Street’s more costly options, with a vibe so informal it didn’t flinch at the sight of a group of students. All the best flavours in taco form? Donald Trump, I hope you’re reading. This Mexican is here to stay.
Image via Charlotte Martin