Given the urgency of the need to address the mass of unsustainable materials so omnipresent in our lives, it’s reassuring to see the Textiles Department of the Edinburgh College of Art (ECA) tackling this problem head on. Being a textiles student myself, I can vouch for the exposure given to sustainability consistently across projects.
The textiles third years’ most recent venture seemed, on the surface, to be concerned with mushrooms. However, the subject of concern is really the mycelium — the root system which grows underneath a mushroom. Mycelium, as a material source, when given the right treatment, can mimic leather or polystyrene. It has properties which make it suitable for a huge range of uses; whether for architecture, clothing, or packaging, mycelium can be both strong and rapidly biodegradable. The professionalism of what students are able to produce in a meagre five-week window is, of course, limited. Nonetheless, it represents an effort to reassess industry norms, which is meaningful even if the results aren’t so refined.
I’ve heard classmates, and even staff, make remarks about the seeming pointlessness of such projects. To some, a project which isn’t reflective of current industry standards, which produces outcomes that aren’t visually tight doesn’t carry any value. But a moment’s reflection indicates that the time where we can assume a business-as-usual attitude is disappearing. Creating neat and tidy pieces which mimic current manufacturing processes have limited value in a climate where this very approach is responsible for problems like health crises, environmental ruin, and huge wealth inequality. With our wardrobes brimming with polyester and our cupboards bursting with plastic, I’m sure we all feel the need for alternatives to be explored.
In fact, to indulge unashamedly in a moment of self-promotion, alongside the mushroom endeavours I am also pursuing another niche avenue in my studies at the moment. Such is the drive to uncover new materials that I am trying ambitiously to transform my dog’s coat into yarn. EW! I hear you cry. You’d be forgiven if visions of a matted, damp-smelling knitted jumper rushed to your mind’s eye. But it’s actually something which has a rich history through different cultures, most strongly associated with the Coast Salish peoples of the Indigenous North American community. Dog wool, otherwise termed ‘chiengora’ is prized for its warmth and softness when processed correctly. And of course it’s washed, as has been queried by many people who I’ve told.
Time, I think, to get over the ick factor and get stuck into these new materials. Should you want to take it upon yourself to do this in your spare time it’s actually considerably accessible, with there being plenty of resources online for, say, growing ‘kombucha leather’ or fashioning glycerin-based bioplastics. Alternatively, please do reach out if you have a dog with excess fur you’d be happy to share.
Photo by Peter Neumann on Unsplash